Being open to gifts from the universe

Someday is today is just part of my new philosophy on life.  Another aspect is being open to offerings from the universe.  When something interesting and maybe challenging, that in the past I would be scared to do, or rationalize away is presented to me, I now will look at it and be open to trying it.

Take for instance yesterday, out of the blue, this hike was mentioned to me, for the 2nd time in a month, Chemin de St-Jacques.  Coincidence?  The universe wanting to offer me a gift and an adventure?  This hike is in France and the mileage I hear most is 500 miles.  Seems impossible.  How can I do that?  That is pretty far away and in a place I don't know, can't speak the language, etc.

The first step is believing that I can do it.

The second is to gather more information about the trek.  Is it even in terrain that I would want to walk?  So here are some steps for me to take.

believe I can do it.  - I do

Talk to others that have done it.  I will start that process next Friday when the volunteer works again.  I will ask her to contact her friend to see if she would share information about the trip and her adventures.

Learn basic French.

Believe that the time and money will be available.  That means a four to five week time period.  I need to give up the idea that I need at least 1 weeks vacation in the bank and be willing to spend it.

There are four major routes for this trek, so I will need to research them to see which one I want to take.

I will need to take some long hikes over the next 10 or 11 months in order to be in shape.

Lots to do before then.  Lots of little somedays will be accomplished in this enterprise.

A partial list of "Someday I'm gonna ..."

Here is a partial list of "Someday I'm gonna ..."
... Run a 10K - Completed 10K dirty Dash 7/9/2011
... Run a street 5K
... Run a Street 10K
... Run a 1/2 marthon - scheduled 12/04/2011
... Learn to play guitar

... visit Yosemite in the Spring for wild flower season

... visit Yosemite in the Fall for fall colors

... hike the Wonderland Trail around Mt Rainier (Possibly in 2012)

... visit Glacier National Park

... visit Scotland

... visit New Zealand

... have my house warming party - Completed in 2010

... know when a woman is flirting with me before I walk away from her.

... find my life partner

... learn to ball room dance - includes Salsa

...  have another art show and sell my photographs

... tour New England in the Fall

... have my face cleaned. COMPLETED

Life changing experiences

Referring back to my first post on this blog, I pondered if dreams were the catalyst for life changing events, or if life changing events were the catalyst for dreams. I have been pondering that idea for the last few weeks to better understand the process; wondering what comes first the dream or the life changing event, and have decided it doesn't matter because it can happen in either order. I also realize that life changing events do not have to be big life productions.


Life changing events can occur simply by making a decision to do something; or a chance encounter and discussion with someone. It can be the decision to pursue a dream or desire, or the event can be thrust upon you from outside people, events, encounters. We have the opportunity to experience many of these events if we are open to what is occurring around us. Unfortunately, I, like many people, have been closed minded and comfortable in my safe little cocoon - dreaming of more adventure in my life; closed to opportunities that have presented themselves to me across the years; afraid to step outside my predictable world that I am trying to control, and accept the adventure the universe is offering to me.

So a short outline of a life changing event:

1. 2009 - Week long volunteer vacation with WTA

2. Conversation around a campfire

3. Settig the date to hike the Checkout

4. Being willing to hike it by myself

5. Experiencing the Chilkoott - 2010

6. Meeting and talking with Arabelle

So who is Arabelle, she is a beautiful young French woman with an adventurous heart and spirit, open to new experiences. Willing to accept the adventure and friendship the universe has to offer. Happy, positive and trusting that things will work out for her in her travels. She is constantly learning about life and open to new ways of thinking and in search of herself and a better internal life. What I know of her story is an inspiration to me to start pursuing and accepting the adventures the universe is offering me. After all, life is for living.

Another of the hikers on the trail is another Frenchman that is in Canada on a work VISA and took the time to experience the Checkout.

The couple from North Wales, who visited and then ended up living in Australia for two years, and took the time on their way back to Wales to experience the Checkout, and then will probably return to Australia after their visit home.

These four people have been catalyst of change in me and they don't know it... now to honor that gift, from them, is up to me.

Wednesday September 1, 2010 Dewey Lakes

The day stats parlty cloudy, a good day for a hike. I take a picture out my window.

My pack is light today, only about 20-25 pounds. the pack, rain gear, food, and camera gear. I need to walk down towards the harbor to reach the trailhead. I start up the trail and after a short while, I think to myself, "What in the world does Elizabeth mean when she says the trail gets steep AFTER the lower lake?"

I arrive at the lower lake and am pleased, I do not spend much time there and I push on towards Upper Dewey Lake. I walk through verdant landscape, trees and bushes, berries and ferns, moss and mushrooms. the trail at this point is basically a dry (relatively speaking) stream bed filled with rocks, boulders, tree roots and slippery mud. It parallels a rushing creek with lots of small tumbling water falls and a few choice areas where I can rest and sit, gazing at the rushing water. I see flecks of gold in the sand and wonder, how can you tell if this is true gold or fools gold? I reflect on the Chilkoot and my experiences and I am very happy.

Up, Up and up I climb, I hope that Upper Dewey is worth the climb. Up, up and up I continue to climb, understanding now, what Elizabeth meant when she said the trail to the upper lake got steep. The trail is now wet and starting to get slippery. I take out my GPS to check the elevation and notice I still have 1500 feet to climb. Did I bite off more than I can chose, I realize that if I was carrying the same load as I did on the Chilkoot, I probably wouldn't complete this hike.

On and on I go, having to make a conscious effort to look around at the beauty around me. Soon, I only have 1,000' than 500' and then I top a rise and I see a meadow off to my left and in the distance I see a cabin. It is a rental that looks out over upper Dewey lake.

I take a path to the right that crosses a small foot bridge and come across another older cabin that is available to anyone - first come first served and is maintained by a local volunteer organization. Looking inside, I decide that it is used by local people as a party place. I would be hard pressed before I slept in that place.

I walk to the lake and it is very scenic even under the gray overcast sky. I bet it would be beautiful with the sun shining and the surrounding mountain peaks reflecting in a mirror like blue lake. I look at my hike information and The Devils Punch Bowl is only another .8 miles further, but also an additional two hours of hiking and I decide for my own safety, it is time to turn around and head back to Skagway for the day. The trip down is treacherous, the trail is slippery and I slip and fall three times on wet roots that are laying in the trail. The views are terrific.

When I finally get back to town, I reward myself with a double tall, peppermint, breve`, no foam latte` $6.40 please. I walk back to the B&B and check my iPod touch for e-mail and there is a mail from Alaska Airlines about my Thursday afternoon flight and I gasp out loud. I thought I was staying until Friday! My ferry ticket was purchased for Friday, my brother planned on picking me up from Sea-Tac on Friday evening and I had a private tour of Skagway scheduled for Thursday. I was enjoying Alaska and was not ready to return home.

I made the arrangements I needed to make to keep from missing my flight and arrived back in Seattle around 6:30 Thursday evening and finally got home around midnight that night.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010 Skagway

Today is sort of a day of rest. I visit the trail office and give a report of my hike as they had asked. I purchased a map of the trail as a keepsake and they also gave me a bear bell... both are things I should have had when I started the trip, but if I had the bell, I may not have seen the second pair of bear.

I also head back to the National Park building and watch another video on the gold rush. I then visit the gift shop and purchase my Klondike pin and some books for gifts. I did most of my souvenir shopping there because the store supports the park. Something I do whenever I visit a NP or Forest Service location.

I also purchase another $6.00 tall Starbuck's latte` from one of the local jewelry stores, sounds like the appropriate place to get one, considering the price. :-)

Laundry is next. On the trail, I put my used clothing into plastic bags to keep my pack neat, when I open the bags, I realize why se sere segregated at the Bennett restaurant and on the train.

Back to B&B for a nap. I finally connect with Elizabeth, my friends friend that lives in Skagway and we agree to meet for pizza that evening. Good pizza and good conversation and she suggests giving me a tour of Skagway on Thursday, from a locals point of view. I think that is a smashing good idea.

I tell Elizabeth that I am thinking of hiking the Dewey Lakes trail on Wednesday.  I had heard good things about the beauty of the lakes, especially the upper lake.  She told me the hike to the lower lake was pretty easy, but that it got pretty steep on the trail to the upper lake.  I might want to reconsider that idea, every year Search and Rescue had to go extract people that got lost, hurt or just couldn't finish the trip back down.  I told her that I would go if it wasn't pouring rain, and if I went, I would be going to the the upper lake.

Monday, August 30, 2010 Bare Loon Lake to Bennett to Skagway by train

Photos are being converted for upload and will be added.

Monday morning, the last day on trail. Bennett is 4 miles from the lake. The morning is crisp and bright, the sun is shining and as I cook breakfast in the eating gazebo, I look out at the crystal blue lake I have mixed emotion about finishing the trek. Happy that I will soon complete it, but sad that I will be returning to civilization. I am also returning to town a day early and have no idea if there will be room at the inn; but I have faith that there will be.

I boil my water to fix my dehydrated scrambled eggs and ham and then boil more water for Starbucks instant coffee. It is pleasurable eating breakfast looking out at this beautiful lake. As I eat, others start showing up to cook their breakfast and light conversation ensues. After I finish eating, I walk back to my sleeping platform and take my tent down and pack my back pack.

I hoist my pack on my shoulder and hope there is water available to replenish my supply as I don't trust the lake water and I only have 1/2 a liter left in the Camel Pak. I start down the trail enjoying the sun and coolness of the air and start the incessant up and down of the trail. I pass the couple from North Wales, they are taking pictures and I wish that I had more space on my cards and juice in my batteries so I can take pictures with abandon. I am carrying the batteries in my pocket, hoping my body heat will help restore some juice.

Walking down the trail watching the trail directly in front of me, I suddenly look up and gaze at the beauty that surrounds me and I think "When you go through life with your nose to the grindstone, focused only on the path to the goal, if you don't stop and rest; take the time to see where you are, how can you appreciate where you were, where you are now and where you are going? And what you now have."

This thought is not just for the trail but for life, I find a place to sit and enjoy where I am. I start down the trail and am reminded, when I here water rushing through the trees, that I still need water. When I see the river, I discover that it is in a gorge and not accessible, s I walk further thinking maybe there is a place where the trail goes down closer to the river, when I turn a corner and the trail is going uphill. O.K. I can ration my water, it is early in the day, cool and I only have about three miles to go.

I come across a bridge and pause on the bridge to watch the water and remember that I have a rope in my pack and I can tie my jet-boil to the rope and drop it into the water and pull it up and fill my water bottle. I do that and as I finish, the couple from North Wales pass me and head up the trail.

There are many trees now, all small, but it is nice to be in the tree line. I trudge on, enjoying the view and finally come to a large boulder on the side of the trail and I look down at the rushing river, there are a few leaves turning color and I try my camera and take a couple pictures. It is at this point, where much to my dismay, I leave a personal relic on the trail for future archeologist to find - my sun glasses fell over the edge of the trail and I cannot retrieve them.

Since yesterday, I have had a craving for a greens salad and it is a very strong craving.

As I continue walking, I think back on this trip and how I was excited to come, even by myself, in order to follow a dream. I had faith that the weather would be good and that I would be safe. I think about how I had doubts of finishing the Golden Stairs and the fear of the embarrassment I would have if I gave up. I think about the feelings I have developed for my unofficial trail mates. I think about the training I did before coming to Alaska, and the 30 - 50 miles a week I had walked, not only on the ferry, but on the trails around Port Gamble - the only thing I wish I had done different is to walk the stairs at work on a regular basis.

The trail has been difficult, but not over whelming - I got through it. Then, much to my surprise, I enter a stretch of sand and then I had to walk up hill in the sand - this was not my favorite section. I wondered how many people take their shoes and socks off and walk barefoot in the sand. Suddenly...

ST. Andrews

The landmark that indicates the trek is over Saint Andrews Presbyterian Church, the only gold rush building still standing in Bennett. I stop and change shirts, putting on the clean shirt I had saved for this occasion. I take a few pictures and discover, even though I can take pictures, the batteries are so low, they will not focus the lens.

Jim, Steven, Annabelle and I start the last 100 yards to the Bennett train Station and restaurant. We stop and take pictures at the Bennett trailhead sign and then proceed to the train station. For some reason, they will not let hikers into the main dining room and we need to go around the building to a special hikers dining room. There $20.00 each buys us Beef Stew, homemade bread, coleslaw and apple pie and our choice of beverage. A virtual feast - hot and cooked by someone else.

We have about 2 1/2 hours to wait for the train to take us back to Skagway, so we eat and sit around and talk. the train loads up about a half hour before it leaves, and once again the hikers are segregated - heck I can't smell us, I wonder what their problem is. I do have to admit, that there is an enhanced feeling of camaraderie in this car that is not in the others. I looked into the car behind us and then walked through our car, at the front of the train and I look at the people. "It is official" I said and my companions asked, "What is" I looked at the people in the car behind us, and I walked through this car looking at everyone, and we are definitely happier than they are." This announcement was met with smiles and agreement.

The train is old, and there are open platforms between the cars and I decide to ride the platform back to Skagway, to smell the fresh air tinged with diesel and feel the wind in my face and blowing through my hair. Wonderful. As we rode through the country side looking at the scenery, I also smelled the trees, grasses and flowers, knowing I would miss that smell soon. I was scanning the hills and ridges looking for bear and other wildlife, and when I saw my fourth bear, I pounded on the window to the railcar and pointed it out to others. One of the women came out and said she was going to stay next to me, "Because you are bear lucky."

There was only oneunpleasant thing on this trip and it was the border agent that boarded the train to check passports and documentation. I have never been embarrassed and ashamed to be an American until I watched him go about his job in such a rude and insulting manner to the foreigners on our car. There were people on the car that had dealt with him in the past and said that he is always like that. It is a shame that this guy may be the first introduction to America and Americans that a visitor to our country may have and it could set the tone for how they feel about America and Americans in general.

When we arrived in Skagway, I made my way to my Bed and Breakfast where I had rooms reserved for the next night, to see if they could take me early Luckily they were able to. I took a shower and put on clean clothes and then hobbled to the brewery across the street and ordered a Cobb salad, onion rings and a bear. $26.00

Back to The Skagway Inn and in bed by 7:00. It took a long time to get to sleep.

Sunday August 29 Happy Camp to Bare Loon lake

Sunday Morning and it is a clear day. The weather has been wonderful. Although we have had overcast mornings and early afternoons, we have not had any rain. There were a couple times when we were misted on for a few minutes, or when we were in the clouds climbing the staircase when it was very damp – THERE HAS BEEN NO RAIN. The weather forecasts I viewed on line indicated at least showers everyday if not outright rain. Friends assured me that this was the rainy season in Alaska so I could expect to get rain. I stated that I expected good weather and “You Gotta Have Faith!” Having faith has worked so far.

The days hike started down hill and across a flat about a quarter mile, and then it started up hill – steep climbs and then a bit of flat and then up again and then flat. And then down and back up again. The path followed along a lake and then turned to go up and around a hill only to come back along the lake or another lake. This pattern repeated itself throughout the morning. The sun is out and reflections of the hills in lake after lake. The scenery is beautiful and inviting, but you can tell the land is inhospitable. There is no way to scratch out a living from the thin rocky soil. It appears good for one thing, and that is to look at and enjoy.

As I trudge through this day, I think about the gnarled scrub pines I am passing. Old and twisted, thin yet alive in this harsh environment. I compare them to the minors that had to hike this 33 mile stretch of treacherous ground for up to 40 or more round trips – during the winter months with temperatures falling to 30 and 60 below zero. How did they do it? How did they keep their dream of gold and riches alive through this hell on earth?

I look at the beauty of the wild flowers and notice their frailty, their slight hold in the earth, yet they thrive for a few months unless a hiker or animal brushes against them and tears lose their tenuous hold in the thin top soil of this harsh plain.

I watch the melted snow water tumble down the hillsides as it it released from glaciers and I use it to nourish me and quench my thirst, yet if I were to fall into the lake, I would have a high chance of dying from the shock of the cold or hypothermia if I could not get warm again.

I take the time to sit on the side of the trail and take in the beauty and to listen to the quiet. I realize that in the last 4 days I have not heard many sounds of civilization. I think I heard three planes in the last four days and no other mechanical sound. I have not used the MP3 player that I bought in case I wanted to hear music, because the sounds that nature played for me, were enough to salve my soul.

I understand that thinking positively can bring the things I want to my life; like believing, without a doubt that I would experience the perfect weather for the trip.

And on this day, I made a decision that I meant to make on this trip. I have applied for a manager position in the IT department, not sure if I wanted it, because I love my job and I like my life stress free. What has happened on this trip has introduced me to a number of people that love to travel and the time, will and money, to other countries for an adventure. I have discovered a part of me that is starting to develop, a need for adventure, a desire to have time and money to travel, and a realization that I am not afraid to travel to other locations and countries. So I will do my best in the interview I will have when I return to work and if the job of manager is offered to me, I will accept it if I can negotiate some safety net for a year or two. This will not only pay me more so I can afford to travel, but will give me four weeks of vacation so I will have the time to travel.

This section of the trail is hard for me, and I consider it the hardest part of the trail. It is not steep like the staircase, but it is up and down. There are a lot of little stones I need to avoid which require shorter steps or the twisting of a foot to plant it firmly so I can take another step. Another thing is it is hotter and at times the trail seems to disappear – the cairns, which used to be frequent, are sometimes missing or knocked over. Luckily there are some beautiful places to get off the side of the trail and watch nature. I do this every time I find that I am “doing” the trail rather than experiencing it, which is easy to do when the moving gets boring.

I was planing on spending five nights on trail, but have been thinking about doing it in four. I am running low on space for pictures and my camera batteries are failing fast. I was going to spend tonight at Lindeman City but everyone else is going on to Bare Loon lake where I was going to spend tomorrow night. I am unfamiliar with the bonding I have been doing on this trip, a bonding of shared experience and hardship and accomplishment. It happened so fast, I started feeling it on the second day. Now that the trip is on the close side of completion, I realize that I will miss these people if I don't finish the trip with them. I will go to Lindeman City and check in with the ranger to wee if it is ok to continue on to Bare Loon and to take the train back a day early. It is assumed that since it is so late in the season, that there will be no problem doing so. I trudge on. I make it to Lindeman City and find that the ranger has gone to the warming center station on the pass and will not be back that day, I visit the interpretive center for the history information and to get my certificate of completion. And then I continue on to Bare Loon lake.

Bare Loon lake is by far the prettiest spot on the trip. The cooking shelter is actually a gazebo type structure open all around. Water is from the lake and the scariest proposition for drinking water on the whole trip as people have swam and washed in the water and it is not moving very swiftly.  The haunting sound of the loons cry and the Loney laugh they make echo across the water.  Haunting and comforting.

Tonight is the best chance of seeing the aurora borealis – clear skies. I am tired and go to bed as the sun is setting with promises from others that they will wake me if they see the lights, and I am expected to let them know if I wake in the night and see the lights. I wake a few hours later and it is cold. I finally crawl out of my sleeping bag to go to the out house. It is crystal clear and I see stars, but there is a lot of light pollution from the ¾ moon and I am sure this would hinder any chance of seeing the northern lights and I head back to bed.

I find that I am happy that I came on this trip. I was the only one not concerned with me doing the hike alone – I knew there would be other hikers on the trail, but I didn't expect to hook up with this crowd. A blessing. I have challenged myself and overcome some fears and have enriched myself. Somehow, these changes in me make the cost of fulfilling this dream,worthwhile.

Saturday Aug 28 Sheep Camp – Happy Camp

The Golden Staircase

This is it, an 8 mile hike today, which includes 3,000 feet of elevation gain in 3 miles – what is billed as the most famous part of the trail – the “Golden Staircase”  1500 steps in 1 mile, were carved into the ice and was made famous by a photograph that shows a dark line of men in single file stretched across a field of white. It is the grail of the trail, the place I have doubts about completing. Why? I have tried to summit Mt. St Helen's twice and both times have exhausted myself before completing the climb. Will I give up on this climb also? Doubts reinforced by past experience have hounded me since I made public my goal of climbing the Chilkoot.

I am determined to make the climb if it takes me 18 hours to do it and if I have to do it one step at a time and resting 5 minutes between each step. It is now that I wish I did not bring my camera equipment and tripod as it adds a good 10 lbs to my load; I know that when I finish, I will be glad I bought the equipment but now, as I face the day, I wish I didn't have it. I put my camera in my pack and declared that there would have to be a pretty spectacular photo opportunity for me to take it out.

A Stream to get fresh water

6:00 A.M. - up to fix breakfast and break camp. I have a rash on my inner thighs and it is painful to walk, but I know the pain will diminish as I start walking. I leave camp with the same two women and they quickly leave me behind. That's ok, I'm still ahead of the others. Today's hike starts on a stretch called Long Hill – which lives up to its name. I am steady and slow. I munch on blue berries as I walk along the trail. It gets steeper. I finally catch up to the women because they had stopped to refill their water and I think that is a good idea for me also.  I pull two oranges out of my pack and give one to the women and ask them to help me reduce my pack weight and share one of the oranges – the two juicy oranges weigh over 1 lb. I take time to eat the other one.

As the ladies continue up the hill, I get my water bottle and climb down to the rushing river to fill it. I add iodine tablets to the water and head up the trail, in half an hour I can add the ph balancer that removes the iodine color and taste and 5 minutes after that I can make Gatorade. I continue up long hill to “The Scales”  This is where the Golden Staircase” starts. This is also where professional packers would tell the minors that instead of 10 cents a lb, they were going to charge them a dollar a pound to carry their supplies any further.

This is where a weak heart can falter, this is my Rubicon,  would I meet my Waterloo here on this tortuous piece of earth. This stretch of trail that many have claimed to be “... the hardest thing they have ever done in their life. “

The day is overcast, thankfully. I cannot see very far up the “staircase”  There are orange posts that mark the route to the top, especially for days like today. As I look out across the boulder field I have to cross to reach the staircase, which itself is part of the boulder field, I can only see 3 or 4 orange poles. I spend time at the scales taking pictures and looking around.

I have been hiking in a short sleeve shirt and wool vest and am soaked from perspiration. I take out my rain jacket, which I use as an outer shell, or wind breaker as the wind is blowing down through the pass. I also get out my woolen mittens for protection from the cold and rocks I will be scrambling up...a technical term; considering the speed I will be making on the climb up the staircase, perhaps I should call it a crawl.

Time to go... I am grateful that I can only see a few of the markers at a time. I make the decision to consider this climb a project and I will take the project and break it into a series of tasks. The first task is to get across the boulder field to the base of the staircase – safely. Each additional task will consist of making it from one orange marker to the next. As I start my trek across the boulder field, I look between the boulders and there is refuse from the original climbers, rusted cans and other implements I need to avoid to keep from cutting myself. Stepping from boulder to boulder, I test each one to see if it will move as I put my weight on it. I am using trekking poles as additional balance points, and many times I am glad that I have them. Time slips by, I don't know how long as I am concentrating on my safety. (I didn't bring a time piece and the only way I can tell the time is to take a picture and then check the embedded information) I realize that I am starting up the hill. Suddenly it gets steeper and I need to stop and tie my poles to my pack so I can use two hands to climb (scramble) up the staircase. With every foot of forward momentum I think I had to go up three feet. Finally I started implementing my task strategy. The climb was difficult and I was stopping quite often to catch my breath and to look around to see what was happening – I wanted my heart to stay in the fat burning range and I didn't want to be so focused that I missed what was happening.

Looking back towards Long Hill

Down the valley, I saw the clouds part and blue sky appear and I could see for miles, then I would climb again and take a break and the clouds had rolled in again.  This happened repeatedly. Eventually after climbing for awhile I noticed other climbers starting the climb. Soon some of them pass me and left me behind (I said earlier that this would become a theme) As I arrived at the first false summit – we were warned about this- one of the family groups caught up with me, it was good to see them and I was happy that they had made it this far.  I joined this group and as I talked with the woman – not the mother, but a family friend, she asked where I worked and when I told her The Seattle Public Library, she asked if I knew a certain person, I said I did and she smiled and said this woman was her best friend in college. We had a small break here, but the cold and the wind convinced us to move on.

As we started up the staircase on our way to the second summit, I heard a calm “Help Me” and I looked up hill. The woman had slipped on a rock and fallen down, luckily there pack broke her fall and loosely lodged between some boulders preventing her from being hurt. I have to admit I thought she looked like a turtle on its back.

2nd false summit

We reached the 2nd false summit and the family group took a break. I continued on and in a few minutes, this group once again passed me. I took my time and when I eventually arrived at the third and final summit, I was relieved and proud of myself for successfully completing the “Golden Staircase” climb.

Parks Canada Summit warming center

I entered the warming center that is operated by Parks Canada. The ranger had three thermos of hot water for us to make coffee or add to our dehydrated food for a hot lunch. One of the things I noticed was that the warming center is much better built than the ones in the US and that the outhouses are much nicer than the ones in the US – however Parks Canada does not supply toilet tissue, were the US parks service did. We stayed in the warming shed and got warm, rested and tired. It was hard to get started on the 2nd half of our day's trip.

Crater Lake

The sun came out when we arrived at the warming center and it lit up Crater lake and the land below us.  Leaving the warming center, we would no longer see orange poles marking the trail, we would need to look for “rock Cairns”, rocks that are stacked in an unnatural manner.

Shortly after leaving the warming shelter, we had to cross a snow field. I was the last one off the field, and as my foot rolled forward on my last step it broke through the snow and there was a one foot drop to the rocks below – luckily I didn't fall through. We continued down the smaller boulder field to gloriously flat land.  We hiked along the lakes edge for miles.  We came to another snow field, and as usual I was bringing up the rear. As I stepped onto the snow field, they yelled to me to get onto the center of the field. The sides of the snow had melted out from underneath, creating a dangerous work of art.

As I walked further along the lake I started seeing vegetation and flowers. I finally unpacked my camera to take pictures. I laid down in the meadow to take pictures of wild flowers and water falls.

This is why I don't wear hats

As I stood looking at a waterfall and taking pictures, one of our party asked if I wanted her to take my picture, I said yes and handed her my camera; the picture reinforces my reasons for not wearing hats. My “toupe” (stocking cap) is setting high on my head, it resembles Marge Simpson's pile of blue hair

Our trek to Happy Camp seemed to go on forever – I was tired and footsore when we arrived at Happy Camp – the wind was blowing in from across the lake and was chilly. My goal was to find a campsite out of the wind. This accomplished, I set up my tent and grabbed my pack and placed it in a building the Canadians had for this purpose and then cooked my dinner - dehydrated beef stew – mmm.

I had carried one of those little airline bottles of vodka over the pass to have a celebratory drink for the accomplishment. I mixed it with Gatorade – not a drink I will have again.

Two more people joined us tonight. They started a day after us, stayed at Canyon City and hiked straight from there, over the “Golden Staircase” a long day for them. Arabelle and Steven. Arabelle is from France and has been in Canada on a work visa and has been traveling around “Couch Surfing” this is a way to find free lodging as you are traveling – being hosted by local individuals and families that enjoy meeting people from other places. There is another program she is involved in that hooks up travelers that need to earn money, with people that need work done. Insert link



One of the amazing stories of this trip is the family of five from Canada. There were three kids the youngest a girl of 5, her brothers older the oldest starting junior high. The little girl was almost always smiling except for the 2nd day after she had hurt her knee and was having trouble bending it. The family wasn't sure if they would be able to continue and finish the trip. They decided they would try another day, Myron saying he would carry the daughter if he needed to. I offered to take some of his load if he wanted me to and he declined. At Happy camp, after the family went to bed we were discussing how happy the family was and how great the kids were. Jim mentioned that when he talked to Myron, they determined that when he was carrying the little girl, on the 2nd day of the trip, his load was around 100lbs. It had to be grueling for him and yet there was no anger or shortness of temper exhibited on his part. I said that I had offered to take some of his load and “Thank God, he declined.” this bought a round of laughter from the others. The second impression of this family that amazed me was they were almost always smiling. On Sunday morning, at Happy camp, the little girl came in to the warming/cooking shelter, after just waking and she was smiling. I said 'There she is and she is still smiling.” She smiled at me and said “I can't do anything else.” and then shyly turned her face into her mothers knee.

Friday August 27

A quiet night. I didn't sleep well, having a 16 oz of Starbucks instant coffee at 4:30 P.M. didn't help matters. No rain last night and breakfast was Mountain Home dehydrated scrambled eggs and ham.  These dehydrated foods taste pretty good and at $5 - $7.00 per meal are a real bargin here in AK. Where a meal and a drink cost $15 - $20.00.

I am starting from Canyon City this morning and the camp ground is about 50 yards from the trail into

Canyon City ruins. I took a tour with the two ladies, and Jim.











There isn't much left to see, an occasional wood stove, lots of rusted cans,some old rotted shoes and a

gigantic old steam boiler, which prompted a discussion of how in the world it was moved there as the trail is steep, narrow, filled with rocks, boulders and massive tree roots. Having seen volunteers on WTA work parties move huge rocks out of the trail, and roll and carry large logs up a rocky beach, I envisioned logs used as rollers and skids. Also, this part of the trail isn't terrible, so horses and mules could be used to move that piece of equipment, but it still would have been a back braking and

dangerous task.

Whenever I visit an historic location or National Park, I am curious as to the history of the place and on the human side of the equation; what did the participants think and feel? Why were they there, what made them put their life in such precarious situation? Here on the Chilkoot it is the very primitive living conditions in extreme weather and cold; the tiring repetitive task of moving there supplies. At the Little Bighorn, it is what were the soldiers thinking when they saw all the Indians. Lewis and Clark parks once again bring questions of why someone would leave their home and families to travel and live in unknown areas in unknown dangers.

We returned to the campground and retrieved our equipment, my pack weighing a shade over 50lbs, is
not such a heavy burden. The weather is cool and overcast as we strike out on the trail for Sheep camp.

I started out hiking with my three companions, but as those that hike with me know, I take my time to
look around and to stop and take pictures, so I was soon left behind. After a short while, I see that the
girls and Jim were waiting for me and I felt a bit guilty for making them wait. I explained that They didn't have to wait for me, and I would see them at Sheep Camp, thankfully there was no argument and they seemed happy to take off on their own. There are at least two types of people that come to hike the trail – those that want to “Do the Chilkoot” and those that want to “Experience the Chilkoot.” I want to experience the Chilkoot, so I will take it slow and explore and let questions run through my mind. I will expect a spiritual experience or two.

There have been improvements made to the trail since 1898, in many places, large stones have been cut, shaped and moved into place as stairs in order to provide an easier experience for the modern day trekker and to reduce damage and erosion to the trail.
The trail is difficult, but can be easily covered if you pace yourself. The landscape is beautiful and serene, the soft and rolling hillsides, covered in lichen and moss, belie the actuality of the hostile and dangerous landscape that is made apparent by the conditions of the trail.  Rocks ranging from pebble size to ankle turning fist sized to boulder sized that you need to climb over or around.

Then there are the roots that inundate the trail; positioned across the trail as tripping hazards or laying parallel in the trail and are slick and as effective as ice in its potential to cause a slip. Another hazard is the fact that you are in bear country and you need to not only watch were your feet are being placed, but you need to be constantly aware of what is around you because you do not want to surprise a bear or walk between a mother and her cubs – she can be quite unforgiving.

The land-hills-trees-rocks and cliffs are adorned with a thick coating of moss and ferns and as I walk through a mini canyon, cliffs rising 10' above me on each side, with a vivid imagination I can see trolls or goblins ambushing me from above – a Tolkienish fantasy. Washed in emerald green my eyes behold a fairytale like fantasy land. Lush moss and ferns, exotic mushrooms from the ugly to the beautiful, from fragile to the stout and hearty, from black, to tan, to orange, yellow and red. They are cup shaped heart shaped, and toadstool shaped. I even saw one in the shape of a heart.

The trail is not a constant uphill, there are welcomed flat stretches that are far too short. My second

hiking day draws to a close as I arrive in Sheep Camp and locate sleeping platform. A sleeping platform is a good idea intended to protect the land and to keep hikers and their equipment out of the mud and water.  A word to the wise is to purchase a free standing tent in case you are lucky enough to use one of these platforms as you can not drive stakes into the wood.

As the 2nd day ends, I feel there is a bond forming between the hikers that met last night in Canyon City – a friendship or family feeling that forms among people that experience the same hardship. I have a concern for them and am glad to see them as they arrive in camp.
So much for the worry of my friends and family about me hiking the trail alone.

There is a meeting at 7:00 and the National Park ranger, Katie, explains the rigors of the trail that we will face tomorrow and answers questions. She then gives a little history lesson about the trail and some of the towns like Canyon City and Sheep Camp.

In 1897 there was famine in Dawson, the destination for all the miners. The Canadian Government sent a detachment to this area in order to keep the peace. The boundary between Canada and the US had not been formally decided at this time, Sanuel Steele, the head of the Mountie detachment selected a location and then on hos own decreed that any person wanting to climb the pass into Canada would need to bring in a years supply of goods, approximately 1 ton of supplies. This caused a bit of an uproar amongst the stampeders, but there was no problem because he had placed a Gatling gun on the summit to deter people from breaking the rule. He then sent word to the capital of Canada and asked for his decree to be made official government policy. It was, but by that time the rush was over. Having to carry a ton of supplies over the pass meant that the average miner had to make about 40 trips up and down that trail.

Disappointing news.

Katie looked at my Grizzly pictures and told me it was a black bear. :-{ The pointed face overrides the
hump on the back. 

Awarenesses

I have grown a lot in the last year. In the past I have been afraid to go places alone, to take chances, to
travel. It had to do with the way I was raised. This is the 2nd trip this year that I have taken on my own to new and exotic places.
Although I still need and want my alone time, I am finding that I enjoy being around people more.

Thursday August 26, 2010

Up at 6:00 packed luggage and moved to B&B storage area. Had breakfast. Shuttled to the trail head by Carl, the owner. Talk on the way included some local history of Dyea, a town that no longer exists. There is a large tidal flat that faced Dyea and steamboats would pull in as far as they could and drop off the passengers gear and kits. The passengers then had 6 to 8 hours to transport their goods the distance to the town. I imagine that many failed in this endeavor and much was soaked and damaged. City fathers has great hopes for the future of the town and Chilkoot trail as the main route to the Klondike and started to build a wharf 1 – 3 miles long that the steamboats could tie up to and unload their passengers and cargo. Unfortunately, the railroad up White Pass, or Dead Horse Pass, was finished by 1889 and and Dyea, a town that had thousands, died a quick death and within days was abandoned.

I arrived at the trail head a little after 9:00 A.M. And before I could even unload my gear, I was alerted to the fact that there was a grizzly bear at the bridge, I grabbed my camera and quickly proceeded to the bridge and started taking pictures of the bear. The bear was aware of us and occasionally looked us over as he ambled up river. The bear passed under the bridge and looked at us probably wondering what the big deal was. At times this bear was within 30 yards of me. Magnificent and immense, this bear appeared to be taking his time, but he covered distance quite quickly with muscles and fat rippling like a work of art, reminiscent of a race horse when watched in slow motion, exuding nothing but brute power. Cool, I thought, I got the bear sighting out of the way.

I started up the trail, on my big adventure and felt good about it. I was relaxed, and constantly scanning my surroundings looking for bear and other wildlife; this type of awareness really opens the eyes to the natural beauty that surrounds you as you walk through the forest. Shortly after entering the trail, I came to a hill, actually it seems to be more of a cliff, with steps carved out of the hillside. About ½ a mile into the hike encounter three women out for a day hike, and they offer to take my picture. I continue on down the trail to mile 1.6 where there is a right turn to go to Finigin's point, where I plan on having lunch. A couple hundred yards past the junction, I come upon fresh bear scat and I look closely to see if it is black or Grizzly scat; I see no bear bells and determine that it is fairly fresh black bear scat – it is not steaming, but it hasn't dried out and there were very few insects crawling over it – so I figure it is fresh, but the bear has had time to travel on. I confidently move forward scanning the area around me, forward, left, right and even behind, to my shock, up the trail about 50 yards are two black bears. I stop and wonder, “oh, darn – what am suppose to do now?” I would like to say that I wasn't scared, but I can say that I didn't have to change my underwear. I took about 3 steps back and then remembered my training, do not walk away unless you know the bear hasn't seen you, as that can cause an aggressive reaction from the bear. In my mind I had a short conversation about turning around and returning to Skagway, especially if I was going to keep encountering bears.

The conversation quickly ended when I said I had spent too much money to turn tail and run at this time. Part 2 of training kicked in and I remembered I was suppose to make sure the bear had seen me and that I wasn't dangerous. I made some noise and one of the bears turned and looked at me and the two bears turned to the right and went up the hill.

I waited a bit in order to give them time to move on and then proceeded on down the trail, talking to the bear, thanking them for letting me walk peacefully through their home. I had a tin mint can and I took it out and started shaking it to make a rattle noise. There is something else that I wanted to do “Someday” and that is loudly sing, “The Sound of Music” in the forest. That is now accomplished.
The weather started out cloudy with a light mist, and even a light shower or two; however,I got wetter from my own exertions than from the elements. The sun came out about 1:00 and has been out since then, a beautiful day.

A National Park ranger passed me on the trail, she was heading in to Skagway, her multi-day at Sheep Camp was finished and she had some time off. I showed her my bear pictures and she was impressed, she said she hadn't seen any for months. We continued on our separate ways and awhile later I heard a voice call out from behind me, alerting me to her presence. This was the relief ranger heading to Sheep Camp. She kept up a fast pace and soon left me behind. (This will become a common theme in the coming days.)

Part of the hike is over a boardwalk that seems to stretch on forever, across a swampy area. The pair of 10'x1'x3 or 4” planks are laid end to end and when you are walking on the center of the plank many of them bow and slap the water. Some worse than others and they make you feel as if you may end up in the somewhat stagnant water. One of the planks was broken and it made me wonder if someone had fallen in.

Lunch consisted of a Cliff Builders bar.

The rest of the days hike was uneventful, except for the occasional crash in the woods; that is if you think walking through lush rain forest across babbling brooks and raging rivers are uneventful.

I was first to arrive at Canyon City campground and had my choice of sites. Shortly after I arrived I heard voices and the two women I had briefly met yesterday had arrived.

Awhile later a Canadian family of 5 arrived, two adults and 3 children, the youngest being 5.

A group of 4 from Fairbanks arrived and then around 11:00, Jim from Bonnie Lake, WA arrived.

At the start of my hike -

I didn't even get my pack on ... This is low res jpeg and I will post another one after converting from RAW.

Great trip.

Thursday August 26, 2010

The day is here, the hour approaches. Time to shutdown the computer and pack it away until I return to Skagway. See you all, or post you all, next Tuesday. Life is an adventure - participate.

Wednesday 8/25

This morning I woke around 5:30 and tried to snooze for awhile, because breakfast wasn't until 7:00, but I didn't have much luck. I slept really well last night – very comfortable mattress and pillows.

I started out the day by walking down Broadway street and taking a few pictures of one of the mountains cloaked in clouds. As I walked from 7th and Broadway, where I am staying, to 2nd street ,cruise ship passengers started filling the streets. I headed directly to the National Park building for information on the Chilkoot Trail and registering for my trip. I was told that I needed to do that across the street. I also indicated that I wanted to take the ranger led walking tour of Skagway at 10:00 and was given a ticket for that purpose. It was 9:00 and a film about Skagways' place in the Yukon Gold Rush was about to start, so I stepped into the theater to watch it.

After the movie, I went to register for the hike and entry into Canada. The ranger talked for about 20 minutes on trial behaviors and I was on my way. Back to the NP building for the walking tour and as I waited the area filled up with these geriatric persons and I decided that I would take the tour after I returned from the hike. I instead, attended a play written by one of the rangers about two of the individuals that participated in the gold rush, a man and a woman that never found gold and the interaction they may have had, if they had met. It was full of historical facts and quite interesting.

After the play, I went to another little room and watched a film about Safety in Bear Country, where it was explained that I was to calmly stand up to the bear if one approached me. I was also to remain calm and talk calmly even if the bear charged me, because charges are usually ended before contact is made. Right.

I then watched a video about the Chilkoot Trail and two women entered and sat down to watch the movie. When it ended, I asked if they were going to hike the trail and they replied that they were, They are leaving tomorrow, and will be on trail 5 days like me. One is from Scandinavia and the other from Denmark. They needed to watch the bear video so I told them I would see them on the trail.

I did a lot of walking through town and popped into a few stores and bought a stocking hat (recommended) and a floppy bush hat for the sun.

I have unpacked my suit cases and loaded most of my pack, I only need to pack my toilet kit and the clothes that I am wearing today.

The day has been mostly cloudy, with rain and about 90 minutes of sun late this afternoon. I will be on my way to the trailhead in about 13 hours.

Something wrong with my camera

I thought there was something wrong with my lens, so I borrowed a couple other lenses and they seemed to work o,k.  I then borrowed another 28-135 telephoto, like the one I was having trouble with and I am once again getting spots in my pictures.  This is very disappointing to me that my photos from this trip will be marred by this imperfection.  ARRRGH.

On the other had, maybe I will get to come back to AK just to get good pictures...or I can learn to use my photo-editing software and learn to remove the spot.

Tuesday 8/24

1:00 – Alaska time – I am at the Alaska Marine HWY ferry terminal, waiting for the ferry. I have about a forty minute wait before it pulls in and then I can put my luggage on a cart – maybe board and get some food. No place close by to fuel up.

The flight was great. I was middle seat with two small women on the sides. Those airline seats are small and close together so it was great not being crowded..

It is cloudy and gray here in Juneau. When the ferry gets in and I park some luggage in a safe place I will take a few pictures of the dock area and the Malaspina – the ferry I will ride to Skagway. The ferrys here are named after well know glaciers, but they are not ones that we will see here on the inside passage. The ferrys are different than the ones we have in the Puget Sound. They are like small cruise ships and the cars load from the side and drive around the ferry and line up so they can get out the door again.

(Dang – there's Internet here $5.00 an hr and if spend $20.00, you get an extra ½ hr. free.) I don't need I-net that bad.

It seems to be clearing up a bit now, the clouds are starting to break up and I can see some mountains.

There is a feeling of peacefulness and calmness over this area. I wonder if the locals feel it or if they feel they are stressed out. It is raining outside, the woman at the visitor center said the weather is better up north. Told her was going to Skagway and she said there is a lot to do there and that the weather should be better.

5:15 AK TIME
As I sat down to write this I glanced out the starboard windows of the forward lounge and saw a beautiful rainbow colored patch of light so I jumped up, grabbed my camera and headed outside to take pictures.

This is a beautiful ferry ride. I have been walking the deck for the last two hours for the exercise and the clouds are breaking up and the temperature is about the mid 50's, very pleasant for walking. The glaciers I we are passing, the fiords and islands – I saw one that looked like a submarine; it is called Sentinel Light House.

We are traveling up the Lynn Canal, it is not realy a canal, canals are man made, it is a fiord.  I wonder if this means that the Hood Canal is not a canal?  We will be stopping in Haines,AK with a 1 hour layover. We got into Haines late and all I saw was a ferry dock and a few buildings. So I guess Haines is further inland.

I arrived in Skagway around 9:30 – 10:30 pst and was picke up at the ferry by a shuttle from the B&B I am staying at. The Skagway Inn. It was built around the turn of the century and has had a checkered past; at one time it was a bordello. Everything here is quite expensive.
 
The B&B has requested that I not download or upload large files as they are charged by their usage.  So I can not upload photos at this time.  Maybe I can use the library when I get back from my trip.  or maybe I'll just upload one.

Staying in a brothel

I reached Skagway tonight and checked into the B&B - it was a brothel at one time.  The Skagway Inn.  I have been up since 4:45 this morning and am tired and am ready to hit the pillows.  The trip up was without incident and I will have to sort through the notes I wrote on my way up for a posting tomorrow.

Preparing for a trip like this can be a little spendy if you need to upgrade your equipment: like a pack that is too small for a 5 day trip and doesn't fit properly, or a new stove that better suits your needs, or finally breaking down and purchasing Gortex rain gear. Having to get new boots because your old ones were so comfortable, that you wore them out already. Plane fare and hotel for staying in town. Suddenly you look at what you have spent and you know you can't back out, even if you wanted to. And you realize why nobody from Seattle wanted to join you; because for you it is dream fulfillment, but for them it was just an expensive hike. :-)
I am packed now, except for my laptop, and am ready to head into bed. I am excited to be doing this trip. I'll be leaving the house in about 9 hours. I will post more tomorrow.

A quick history of the trip to the Klondike Gold fields

http://www.questconnect.org/ak_klondike.htm

The Dream

In 1998 I said to myself that I wanted to return to Skagway, AK to hike the Chilkoot trail. I told myself through the following years that I wanted to hike the Chilkoot. It was always out of reach because of lifes events and because I didn't think I had the backpacking experience orthat I  was in shape to accomplish the task and being in that frame of mind, it would always stay a dream.
My first life change came after Jo Ann died and I realized how many times we said, “someday we are going to ...” and we never got around to someday. The other wasn't so profound, it happened around a campfire in September of 2009, people were talking about trails they had hiked and trails they wanted to hike when I stated “Someday I want to hike the Chilkoot.” Laurie asked me when someday was. That statement turned in my mind for a long time and I decide that “Someday was the last week of August and the first week of September, 2010.”

Someday is today - make memories.

Dreams are, or can be goals. We may not know it is a goal or that it can be life changing when we fulfill the dream, or maybe we fulfill the dream because we have had a (or many) life changing experiences.

In 1998 I said to myself that I wanted to return to Skagway, AK to hike the Chilkoot trail. I told myself through the following years that I wanted to hike the Chilkoot. It was always out of reach because of life's events and because I didn't think I had the back packing experience or was in shape to accomplish the task and being in that frame of mind, it would always stay a dream.

My first life change came after Jo Ann died and I realized how many times we said, “someday we are going to ...” and we never got around to someday. The other wasn't so profound, it happened around a campfire in September of 2009, people were talking about trails they had hiked and trails they wanted to hike when I stated “Someday I want to hike the Chilkoot.” Laurie asked me when someday was. That statement turned in my mind for a long time and I decide that “Someday was the last week of August and the first week of September, 2010.”