Monday, August 30, 2010 Bare Loon Lake to Bennett to Skagway by train

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Monday morning, the last day on trail. Bennett is 4 miles from the lake. The morning is crisp and bright, the sun is shining and as I cook breakfast in the eating gazebo, I look out at the crystal blue lake I have mixed emotion about finishing the trek. Happy that I will soon complete it, but sad that I will be returning to civilization. I am also returning to town a day early and have no idea if there will be room at the inn; but I have faith that there will be.

I boil my water to fix my dehydrated scrambled eggs and ham and then boil more water for Starbucks instant coffee. It is pleasurable eating breakfast looking out at this beautiful lake. As I eat, others start showing up to cook their breakfast and light conversation ensues. After I finish eating, I walk back to my sleeping platform and take my tent down and pack my back pack.

I hoist my pack on my shoulder and hope there is water available to replenish my supply as I don't trust the lake water and I only have 1/2 a liter left in the Camel Pak. I start down the trail enjoying the sun and coolness of the air and start the incessant up and down of the trail. I pass the couple from North Wales, they are taking pictures and I wish that I had more space on my cards and juice in my batteries so I can take pictures with abandon. I am carrying the batteries in my pocket, hoping my body heat will help restore some juice.

Walking down the trail watching the trail directly in front of me, I suddenly look up and gaze at the beauty that surrounds me and I think "When you go through life with your nose to the grindstone, focused only on the path to the goal, if you don't stop and rest; take the time to see where you are, how can you appreciate where you were, where you are now and where you are going? And what you now have."

This thought is not just for the trail but for life, I find a place to sit and enjoy where I am. I start down the trail and am reminded, when I here water rushing through the trees, that I still need water. When I see the river, I discover that it is in a gorge and not accessible, s I walk further thinking maybe there is a place where the trail goes down closer to the river, when I turn a corner and the trail is going uphill. O.K. I can ration my water, it is early in the day, cool and I only have about three miles to go.

I come across a bridge and pause on the bridge to watch the water and remember that I have a rope in my pack and I can tie my jet-boil to the rope and drop it into the water and pull it up and fill my water bottle. I do that and as I finish, the couple from North Wales pass me and head up the trail.

There are many trees now, all small, but it is nice to be in the tree line. I trudge on, enjoying the view and finally come to a large boulder on the side of the trail and I look down at the rushing river, there are a few leaves turning color and I try my camera and take a couple pictures. It is at this point, where much to my dismay, I leave a personal relic on the trail for future archeologist to find - my sun glasses fell over the edge of the trail and I cannot retrieve them.

Since yesterday, I have had a craving for a greens salad and it is a very strong craving.

As I continue walking, I think back on this trip and how I was excited to come, even by myself, in order to follow a dream. I had faith that the weather would be good and that I would be safe. I think about how I had doubts of finishing the Golden Stairs and the fear of the embarrassment I would have if I gave up. I think about the feelings I have developed for my unofficial trail mates. I think about the training I did before coming to Alaska, and the 30 - 50 miles a week I had walked, not only on the ferry, but on the trails around Port Gamble - the only thing I wish I had done different is to walk the stairs at work on a regular basis.

The trail has been difficult, but not over whelming - I got through it. Then, much to my surprise, I enter a stretch of sand and then I had to walk up hill in the sand - this was not my favorite section. I wondered how many people take their shoes and socks off and walk barefoot in the sand. Suddenly...

ST. Andrews

The landmark that indicates the trek is over Saint Andrews Presbyterian Church, the only gold rush building still standing in Bennett. I stop and change shirts, putting on the clean shirt I had saved for this occasion. I take a few pictures and discover, even though I can take pictures, the batteries are so low, they will not focus the lens.

Jim, Steven, Annabelle and I start the last 100 yards to the Bennett train Station and restaurant. We stop and take pictures at the Bennett trailhead sign and then proceed to the train station. For some reason, they will not let hikers into the main dining room and we need to go around the building to a special hikers dining room. There $20.00 each buys us Beef Stew, homemade bread, coleslaw and apple pie and our choice of beverage. A virtual feast - hot and cooked by someone else.

We have about 2 1/2 hours to wait for the train to take us back to Skagway, so we eat and sit around and talk. the train loads up about a half hour before it leaves, and once again the hikers are segregated - heck I can't smell us, I wonder what their problem is. I do have to admit, that there is an enhanced feeling of camaraderie in this car that is not in the others. I looked into the car behind us and then walked through our car, at the front of the train and I look at the people. "It is official" I said and my companions asked, "What is" I looked at the people in the car behind us, and I walked through this car looking at everyone, and we are definitely happier than they are." This announcement was met with smiles and agreement.

The train is old, and there are open platforms between the cars and I decide to ride the platform back to Skagway, to smell the fresh air tinged with diesel and feel the wind in my face and blowing through my hair. Wonderful. As we rode through the country side looking at the scenery, I also smelled the trees, grasses and flowers, knowing I would miss that smell soon. I was scanning the hills and ridges looking for bear and other wildlife, and when I saw my fourth bear, I pounded on the window to the railcar and pointed it out to others. One of the women came out and said she was going to stay next to me, "Because you are bear lucky."

There was only oneunpleasant thing on this trip and it was the border agent that boarded the train to check passports and documentation. I have never been embarrassed and ashamed to be an American until I watched him go about his job in such a rude and insulting manner to the foreigners on our car. There were people on the car that had dealt with him in the past and said that he is always like that. It is a shame that this guy may be the first introduction to America and Americans that a visitor to our country may have and it could set the tone for how they feel about America and Americans in general.

When we arrived in Skagway, I made my way to my Bed and Breakfast where I had rooms reserved for the next night, to see if they could take me early Luckily they were able to. I took a shower and put on clean clothes and then hobbled to the brewery across the street and ordered a Cobb salad, onion rings and a bear. $26.00

Back to The Skagway Inn and in bed by 7:00. It took a long time to get to sleep.